Hanoi travel guide

Hanoi is the cultural and political heart of Vietnam. This is where the pulse of Vietnamese civilization beats: centuries-old temples, a colonial-era opera house, literature and water puppet theater.

The city offers an expat experience that is radically different from the south. The pace is calmer, the seasons shape the year and the cultural immersion goes deeper. Hanoi draws expats who are after authenticity rather than the beach. It is also the most Francophile city in Vietnam: French colonial architecture is everywhere, and a small, long-established French-speaking community is still there.

Tay Ho (West Lake). The number one expat neighborhood. Lakeside living, trendy cafes, international restaurants and a village feel. Among the pricier areas for rent.

Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter). The historic heart. Busy lanes, street food and nightlife. Noisy but vibrant.

Ba Dinh. The embassy district, quiet and leafy, close to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.

Hai Ba Trung. Central, good value for money and increasingly trendy.

Long Bien. On the east bank of the river and developing fast. Villas, green spaces and attractive prices.

Cau Giay / Nam Tu Liem. Modern districts to the west, with new apartment towers and shopping malls.

Rents vary a lot from one district to the next: Tay Ho, Ba Dinh and the Old Quarter sit at the top of the range, while Long Bien, Hai Ba Trung and the western districts are easier on the budget.

Hanoi is slightly cheaper than Ho Chi Minh City but more expensive than Da Nang. A couple's monthly budget breaks down into the usual items:

• Rent (two-bedroom, furnished): by far the largest item, and the one that depends most on the district.
• Electricity and water: a noticeable line, especially in the months when you run the air conditioning.
• Fiber internet and a mobile data plan: both inexpensive.
• Groceries and local restaurants: eating local keeps this line low.
• Scooter rental: a monthly rental is the norm.
• Health insurance: an international policy is one of the biggest fixed costs after rent.

One item is specific to Hanoi: heating in winter. Apartments are usually heated with reversible air conditioning, which pushes the electricity bill up from December to February. A single person needs a noticeably smaller budget than a couple. For current figures, see our [cost of living in Vietnam](/en/cost-of-living) page.

Hanoi has a fast-growing coworking scene, especially around Tay Ho and Hoan Kiem:

• Toong. A leading coworking network in Vietnam, with several locations in Hanoi and a carefully designed look.
• UP Coworking Space. An active community with networking events.
• Hive Coworking. In West Lake, with a relaxed atmosphere.
• Regus / Spaces. Corporate standard, with several addresses.

Cafes such as Maison de Tet Decor in Tay Ho or The Hanoi Social Club are great for working, with stable Wi-Fi.

Hanoi is widely considered the food capital of Vietnam. Street food here is an art form, and a local dish costs very little:

• Pho. The national dish, better here than anywhere else, with a broth simmered for 12 hours.
• Bun cha. Grilled pork with noodles, the dish Obama ate with Anthony Bourdain.
• Banh mi. The Hanoi version, with pâté and herbs.
• Cha ca La Vong. Fish grilled with turmeric and dill, a one-of-a-kind specialty.
• Egg coffee (ca phe trung). Coffee topped with a creamy egg-yolk foam, a Hanoi invention.
• Bun rieu. Crab and tomato noodle soup.

French cooking is well represented thanks to the colonial legacy: artisan bakeries, bistros and cheese shops.

• The Old Quarter. 36 historic streets, each one originally devoted to a single trade, with a night market on weekends.
• Hoan Kiem Lake. The heart of the city: morning joggers and Ngoc Son Temple.
• West Lake. About 17 km (11 miles) around, with temples, pagodas and sunsets.
• Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. One of the best museums in Southeast Asia.
• Hanoi Opera House. French architecture and regular performances.
• Day trips. Ha Long Bay (3 hours), Ninh Binh (2 hours), Sapa (overnight train).

Hanoi is also the gateway to northern Vietnam: terraced rice fields, mountains and ethnic minority villages are a few hours away.

• Hanoi French Hospital (Hôpital Français de Hanoi). French-speaking staff and European standards.
• Vinmec Times City. A modern private hospital covering all specialties.
• Family Medical Practice. An international clinic with 24/7 emergency care.
• Raffles Medical. Expat doctors and comprehensive check-ups.

Having a French hospital in town is a major plus for French-speaking expats. The quality of private care is comparable to Ho Chi Minh City.

• Scooter. Everywhere, and usually rented by the month. Be warned: Hanoi traffic is chaotic.
• Grab. Motorbike taxis and cars, cheap for rides within the city.
• Bus. An extensive network. Slow, but very cheap.
• Bicycle. Possible around the lakes, dangerous in heavy traffic.

Climate is a key factor. Unlike the south, Hanoi has four real seasons. Winters (December to February) are cool and damp, at 50–64°F (10–18°C), and apartments often have no central heating. Plan on blankets and a space heater. Summers (June to August) are very hot and humid, with a heat index of 95–104°F (35–40°C). Spring and fall are beautiful.

Visa. Travelers from the United States, Australia, India and Canada need a visa for Vietnam. The e-visa, valid for up to 90 days, is issued on the official government portal, evisa.gov.vn. If you would rather hand off the paperwork, [visa-vietnam.app](https://visa-vietnam.app) is run by the same publisher as this site.